We should actually have a money bin like Scrooge McDuck. Dominica throws so many rainbows into the sky that we don’t even know which end we should look for the pot of gold first. So we refrain from searching and concentrate on the natural treasures that the island has to offer.

Wherever you look, mountains glow in all shades of green. There are waterfalls, hot springs and natural pools in abundance. At least more than you can hike in a fortnight.

But first the wave and wind conditions between Martinique and Dominica catch us on the wrong foot. They don’t come as a complete surprise, but we still have to secure flying objects in the pantry and ourselves as best we can. After a few hours, however, the spook is over and the coast is close. With a brief stopover in Roseau at the southern end of the island, we complete our clearance formalities. However, we prefer to spend our first nights in Mero. The small, peaceful town has a lovely beach and good snorkelling. There are only a few other yachts here, anchoring is easy and the location is perfectly sheltered. We are grateful for this, as there are strong and gusty winds, which the locals call the Christmas Winds. They start sometime after Christmas and then blow for as long as they like – sometimes longer, sometimes shorter.

In the lee of the island it is quite pleasant sailing to the northern tip. Prince Rupert’s Bay is a large, deep bay. There is a local NGO, PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security), which looks after all the needs of visiting boats. Founded in 2005, the organization was probably a self-organized response to the perception among sailors that Dominica was unsafe for sailors. The devastation that tropical storms repeatedly cause there has probably contributed to the unclear reputation. But in many places you feel that the country is making a great effort to pave the way for tourists. You will find friendly and helpful people everywhere. For sailors, Dominica also offers probably the easiest system for clearing in and out in the whole Caribbean.

In addition to solid mooring buoys that don’t seem to match the wrecks on the beach, PAYS organizes tours of the island and a big barbecue for all sailors in the bay every Sunday. Since we arrive on a Sunday, we take the opportunity to make new friends. The atmosphere in the evening is as lively as the rum punch is strong. For the first time we make contact with French sailing families. Our subjective observation during our trip was that most boats with children come from France, closely followed by Scandinavians. This seems to be confirmed here. There is a lot of happy running, jumping and skipping, while the parents enjoy their time. However, the illusion of freedom from parental interference is shattered in a matter of seconds when the first kids get rid of their life jackets. All in all, it is a nice experience and we hope to see one or two of the boats again at our next stops.

Maintenance issues await us on board: The generator swallows air in shock when we switch the diesel pre-filter. And the water pump has completely given up. An installed pressure switch has been causing problems for several weeks; water is leaking into the housing and the switching mechanism is corroded. Unfortunately, there is no replacement in the technical room. A hand pump and manual switching on and off now bridge the time until a suitable package arrives in Guadeloupe from Germany. Hopefully.

Meanwhile, our first tour with the rental car takes us to the Chaudiere Pool. In other countries such an attraction would be overcrowded. Not in Dominica. We plunge undisturbed into the endless forest and the cool water under the falls, which causes a moment of irritation due to its lack of salt. It’s been too long since we’ve had fresh water on our skin.

After a quick visit to a chocolate factory nestled among cocoa trees and a stop at Red Rocks, it’s on to the final highlight of the day: the mouth of the Hampstead River. The atmosphere could not be more Caribbean. That’s probably what the Pirates of the Caribbean location scouts thought when they set up their cameras here. Like a number of other Caribbean islands, Dominica draws from the popularity of the long-running pirate films. Official maps show the filming locations as well as the natural highlights.

The second day’s destination is Syndicate Falls. The water plunges about 30 meters. The trail is beautifully laid out and crosses a stream several times. With the recent rainfall it is well filled. Signs warn of flash floods and describe in bullet points when hikers should be careful and turn around. We feel safe and continue our hike to the waterfall. Before descending a narrow path between avocado and cacao trees, we have fresh passion fruit juice and water begonias to nibble on – along with a spectacular view.

The next day, the sky is not satisfied with short showers. It won’t stop raining. At the small sulfur springs in the mountains to the south, everything is closed. But the small steaming holes in the ground are still visible. Under a canopy of leaves we scurry on to Trafalgar Falls. If it hadn’t been so wet, we would have admired the spectacle of the two impressive waterfalls for a bit longer.

We return via adventurous roads and frighteningly fresh mudslides. Down on the coast, the torrential rain stops and the driving is immediately relaxed again. Driving on Dominica is on the left, there are no road signs. Not a single one. So if you want to feel free and think road signs are for nanny states, you’re definitely in good hands here. There are only hand-painted signs for the place names. ISigns for Chinese development and investment activities, on the other hand, are stenciled. A new airport is currently being built in Dominica under Chinese supervision, and we also discover a Dominica China Friendship Hospital. The constantly recurring, devastating hurricanes welcome support.

We cannot judge whether the numerous cruise ships with their thousands of day visitors bring any noticeable added value for the residents of Dominica. Nevertheless, huge ships from all the major companies regularly dock in the capital Roseau. Several luxury cruise ships such as the Sea Cloud or Royal Clipper.anchor in Prince Rupert Bay during our stay. They too are probably glad to have found a quiet spot during the Christmas winds.

In addition to great hikes and nature experiences, we look back on new kids’ friendships, spontaneous dance parties while shopping, great freediving sessions, the colorful start of Carnival and lots of fresh passion fruit to devour during our time in Dominica.

The journey continues to Guadeloupe.