Rain does not quite fit the picture. But the day we arrived in Martinique, we could have guessed that it wasn’t going to be all sunshine in Caribbean France: It was gray and rainy.

Somewhere in Sainte-Anne

For most sailors coming directly from the Atlantic or from the islands further south, Le Marin or Sainte-Anne is the first port of call. We do the same and head for the huge bay coming from Barbados, where hundreds of boats find space and shelter. It’s very easy to get lost there. Shortly after entering the bay, we see a colorful water park and decide to set up camp there. Conveniently, the park also serves as a landmark to help us find Nikola among all the boats when we return from a shore leave.

So now back in France. It feels surreal and home at the same time. In addition to the many French boats, the infrastructure and the supply situation, especially when it comes to food, tell us that we are back in Europe. We dig out our euros and try to pick up the language thread we lost in Roscoff. Even if the language differences are difficult to compare for those who speak French.

Postcard idyll and carnival capital

It’s time to enjoy the water again. The view of the many boats in Le Marin/Sainte-Anne, the ignored black water station and the old man urinating from the railing every morning, as well as the oil and gasoline in the water, limited the fun in the sea. On the way to the island’s capital, we therefore make a stopover in Les Anses-d’Arlet. There are half as many boats there and the scenery is twice as beautiful. For the first time on the trip, we see pelicans fishing.

Sailing to Fort-de-France is like sailing on an inland lake and the location reminds us of the Spanish Rias. The moorings are right next to the city center, between cruise ships and an old fort. Our arrival coincides with the start of Carnival. It’s only mid-January, but you have to start somewhere. In Fort-de-France, that happens with the Foyal Parade. It’s hot, it’s colorful, loud and exuberant. It is unclear how the dancers and musicians make it through the miles-long parade through the city, but the party goes on into the evening hours and the mood is great.

From Fort-de-France, we take a bus trip into the interior of the island. As comfortable as the outward trip is, conveniently starting from the cruise terminal, the return journey is bumpy. We bake in the sun and wait an eternity for the bus back to the city. Nevertheless, the botanical garden in Balata was more than worth the trip.

Volcanic island history

Saint-Pierre became famous for a sad reason. The small town is located in the north of Martinique at the foot of the Pelée volcano. Its eruption in 1902 destroyed everything around it. Within minutes, the lively town and its trading port were wiped out. More than 28,000 people lost their lives in the cloud of embers. This catastrophe has shaped the character of the city to this day. A small museum provides an insight into the history and events around the volcanic eruption. The remains of the destroyed buildings give an idea of why the town was called Little Paris at the time. Prosperity was also made possible by the slave trade. This is also part of the island’s history.

The Saint-Pierre Zoo is a green oasis that also incorporates ruins from pre-eruption-times. We stroll through the fantastic grounds in the soft evening light and can’t think of a more beautiful zoo we’ve ever visited.

The next day we sail from Saint-Pierre to Dominica and from there to the next French island. At the first passage between two islands, the entire contents of the boat flew around, so this time we are better prepared. With everything stowed away and well lashed down, the waves and gusts on the way north no longer shock us.