Congratulations to ourselves! Our choice of route. Galicia was a highlight on our way south. A stop in northern Spain had always been on our itinerary. The green landscapes, tranquil villages, sheltered anchorages and seafood-focused cuisine were tempting. In fact, not a day went by without fish or shellfish on our plates. No wonder, given the impressive fleet of fishing boats in every port, no matter how small.

However, we spent most of the time not in ports, but at anchor in the fjord-like bays of the Galician coast, called rías. It’s wonderful sailing there. The swell stays outside and the winds are more moderate, almost like on an inland sea. Anchoring is easy in most places, there is a sheltered spot for every wind direction and the anchor ground is good. Once the day trippers have left the bay, the jet skis are stowed away and the motorboats are quiet, the bays become peaceful. They then belong to the few sailing boats that spend their time here. It’s surprising that there aren’t more.

On land, it is mainly Spanish domestic travelers who seek refuge in the cool north, while the other Europeans fry on the south coast. Apart from the cruisers in La Coruña or Vigo and the pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela, there are relatively few tourists.

The most impressive thing about the Galician coast and the rías was the fog. Incredibly thick, quickly there, quickly gone and very local. Even in La Coruña, it hugs visitors and residents tightly and moistens them. In the port and on land, it is very atmospheric and beautiful to look at. At sea, it’s a friendly reminder to familiarize yourself with the radar, so as not to be surprised by a fisherman without AIS. On the only more challenging leg, the circumnavigation of Cap Finisterre - also known for its adverse conditions - we had perfect visibility and otherwise good sailing conditions.

Here is an overview of our moorings and anchorages in Galicia:

• Cedeira

• A Coruña

• Ares (Ría de Betanzos)

• Redes (Ría de Betanzos)

• Corme (Ría de Corme e Laxe)

• Fisterra (Ría de Corcubion)

• Muros (Ría de Muros e Noia)

• Rianxo (Ría de Arousa)

• Vilagarcía (Ría de Arousa)

• Illa de Arousa (Ría de Arousa)

• Sanxenxo (Ría de Pontevedra)

• Raxó (Ría de Pontevedra)

• Islas Cíes

• Vigo

Even the first, more northerly rías were idyllic, quiet and green. With a smiling sun in the sky, the summer mood comes to life, and even the 16 degree water temperature doesn’t prevent us from having fun swimming. Quite by chance, we found scallops in the sandy bottom under the boat. Ten minutes and a few dives later, we had dinner for the five people on board.

In the restaurants, mussels were on the menu, some of which we had never heard of before: barnacles (percebes), razor clams (navajas), mussels (mejillones), clams (almejas). The fact that Galicia is the largest producer of mussels in Europe cannot be overlooked, as in many bays, especially in the Ría Arousa, the mussels are cultivated on long ropes under countless wooden rafts, which sometimes have to be laboriously sailed around. A few hundred meters away they can be enjoyed: in one of the many chiringuitos - beach bars that are open in the summer months. We found the best ones on Illa de Arousa, a small island in the bay of the same name with a relaxed atmosphere and an almost Scandinavian-looking stone landscape.

A highlight of our Spanish leg was just a few nautical miles further east off the coast: the Islas Cies, part of the Islas Atlánticas de Galicia National Park. Visiting them requires a little planning, as we need a permit to drop anchor. However, the small formality is worth it, as the island and the beaches are more than worth seeing. Every day, the ferries bring hundreds of day tourists to what The Guardian calls the most beautiful beach in the world. However, the bathers are well spread out on the eternally long beach and with the departure of the last shuttle to the mainland, the peace and quiet is almost palpable.

By chance, we got stuck in Vigo, the largest city in Gallicia with just under 300,000 inhabitants. Founded by the Romans, occupied by Napoleon, base of the German submarine division - just to name a few historical landmarks.

The port is centrally located and there is little car traffic in the old town thanks to the underpass. We find old fortresses, mighty churches, many green hills, lush parks, beautiful neighborhoods with exciting shops, cafes and restaurants. And fun architecture with a colorful mix of styles. The scenery is just right and we feel right at home. From the cockpit, we occasionally see cruise ships of gigantic proportions docking and passengers whizzing down transparent water slides while we have breakfast. The rest of the cruisers scurry through the narrow streets. By evening, however, everyone is gone. Time flies on playgrounds, while strolling and enjoying various leisure activities.

What we lack in crowds and city flair in Vigo, we find on an excursion to Madrid, where we spend a few days before enjoying the comfort of a Parador in Lerma and looking at the magnificent facades of the sacred buildings in Salamanca.